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Changing a 120 Volt Motor to 220 Volt

Oct 7th 2015 at 9:16 AM

When I bought my Powermatic 2000, I considered various aspects of my purchase including whether the saw comes with a warranty and if Powermatic replacement parts will be available in case anything goes wrong. One of the considerations was if I can run my saw on 220 Volts or not. It has been a long debate if it is advantageous to run a saw on 220 Volts or not and that’s what I am going to discuss.

 

A few motors can run on both 120 and 220 Volts. The advantages of changing to 220 Volts are one of most faced off regarding and mistake ridden exchanges you'll discover on the web. My restricted information of power isn't adequate to settle all parts of those verbal confrontations here, yet here's a brief layman's clarification that I trust will in any event give a battling chance at seeing advantages included.

 

The sorts of motors utilized on most saws with prompting motors have two arrangements of curls; they either keep running in series or in parallel with one another, contingent upon whether they're wired for 120 Volts or 220 Volts. Every loop sees generally the same amperage whether keep running on 120 Volts or 220 Volts, so in principle, there ought to be no distinction in how the motor performs.

 

What changes is the measure of amperage conveyed by the supply leg or legs of the circuit. The motor is basically the same, yet the supply lines are not, which is a key point that regularly gets neglected in this level headed discussion. 220 Volts circuits supply amperage from two inverse hot supply lines, that each conveys a large portion of the obliged current to the motor curls. 120 Volts circuits supply amperage from one hot leg, which supplies the greater part of the required current, which can bring about more warmth and requires heavier gage wire. Despite the fact that head room is composed into all great electrical circuits, 120 Volts circuits will inalienably run more like 100% of their ability than a 220 Volts circuit, which can bring about some loss of productivity and voltage loss contrasted with a 220 Volts circuit.

 

On the off chance that voltage loss is sufficiently extreme it can thusly influence the performance of the motor. It's variable to an extensive degree, to some extent on the grounds that each circuit is to some degree novel, so what's valid now and again isn't as a matter of course valid in all cases. The guilty parties of voltage loss are regularly things like utilizing long wires, insufficient wire gage, old wire, ill-advised metallurgy, long additional lines, numerous intersections, or different gadgets running on the same circuit. The bigger the amperage draws of a given motor, the more probable that voltage loss will happen in the circuit.

 

Ordinarily motors of 2 horse power or more are best kept running on a 220 Volts circuit. It's vital to note that most motors have ostensible amperage draw demonstrated on the motor plate, yet the genuine passing amperage draw can be altogether higher at startup, substantial burden, slowing down, and so forth. In the event that huge voltage loss happens, it can bring about a motor to be lazy, moderate to influence up, and ease back to recoup from burden. It can likewise bring about overabundance heat, which can prompt shorter administration life, or even untimely perpetual harm.

 

A 220 Volts circuit is less inclined to approach the cutoff points of its supply limit in light of the fact that the amperage conveyance is split, so is more averse to bring about voltage loss. The capacity of a sufficient circuit to supply full energy to the motor loops permits the saw to hurry to its maximum capacity. This regularly gets misjudged as 220 Volts making the motor all the more effective when it's actually not; it's simply never again being famished for force.

 

Once the voltage loss issue is explained, the finished result is that your saw's motor ought to be more responsive with speedier startup, quicker recuperation, giving the view of less dragging, and so on. It can be contended that a satisfactory 120 Volts circuit with sufficiently extensive gage wire that just supplies power to your saw would work pretty much too, yet the idea of sharing the work load crosswise over two leads bodes well rather than one lead conveying double the current. In the event that you have 220 Volts promptly accessible, and your saw can keep running on 220 Volts, there's little drawback to doing that switch. In the event that you don't have 220 Volts, and you have truly no issues running your 120 Volts saw on a 120 Volts circuit, there's little motivation to seek after it.

 

 

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